Storm watching in style at the Desert Hills Glamping Camp in Namibia | Focus
We stood on the terrace outside the main lounge and watched the storm forming on the horizon.
The sky began to turn blue, lightning crackled through the clouds and the wind picked up.
We had been on the road for over a week, battling the elements and unseasonal rain showers, but for the first time, we had no sense of impending doom with an approaching storm – fast! pitch the tents, take shelter! – but more of a sense of excitement as it got closer to us.
We watched it take shape from the lounge/bar/dining room of Desert Hills, a glamping site built on a ridge overlooking the vast Namibian plains, reached by a five-kilometre path 17km south of the Sesriem exit on the C19.
Accommodation so far on our two week trip has ranged from country run campsites with shared shower facilities to a B&B with private bathroom to a pitch that was literally a table and a long toilet.
So to arrive here and have the luxury of an en suite bathroom and a double bed and the most stunning view was a real luxury: walking into our room felt almost decadent after a week of sleeping in a tent on the roof of our Toyota HiLux.
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Desert Hills has 11 identical rooms and a larger family suite, located along the ridge overlooking a valley.
Each room is covered in canvas, with floor to ceiling glass doors, a toilet, shower and a huge four-poster bed overlooking the glass doors.
The bed is equipped with a mosquito net, practical and romantic, but despite the wet weather we did not hear or see any moisturizers.
We were told to keep our shoes inside because they might get pinched by jackals, which made us smile when we thought about them running across the plains in sneakers.
The views are gripping and constantly changing; the morning light penetrates the darkness and bathes our bed in morning rays; the flat, hot sun during the day and the most spectacular sunsets I have ever seen.
Landscapes like these have an elemental beauty and power that is both humbling and disheartening.
When the storm finally hit, it was spectacular: the rain was falling hard, the wind was hitting the canvas, and the noise was so loud we couldn’t talk.
It went on like this for about fifteen minutes, then tapered off and resumed, which terrified the little kids in the camp but thrilled us (one guest even chose to stay outside).
And then it was over, all the anger disappeared, the sun broke through the clouds, a gentle trickle, trickle off the canvas and a freshness in the air.
The lounge is the center of the camp, with a small bar, coffee and tea during the day, magazines and a small collection of books.
Here guests gather all day long to play board games or cards, or in the evening for an aperitif.
The dinner menus are posted in the morning so you can advise any dietary requirements (it’s too late to give advice in the evening, the camp is at least an hour’s drive from the nearest shop. I was amazed that the chef could prepare such delicious food every evening.)
The dinners were delicious, heavy on meat, especially steak and game: oryx was a first for me, and was absolutely delicious. But somehow, despite being miles from the coast, we also had fish options, including a delicious breaded kingklip, served with mashed potatoes and chopped vegetables.
Desserts were equally delicious, especially the passion fruit crème brulee, served with a dollop of ice cream. The wines were all from South Africa and were heavy, pairing well with the red meat.
The mornings were spent having breakfast, which consisted partly of a buffet and partly of table service for hot food; and laze by the pool.
The location of the pool is sublime, just below the main building, with uninterrupted views towards the mountains, a shaded area, plenty of sun loungers and a changing area in the main building.
There is even a fire pit built next to the pool, which unfortunately we were unable to use due to the weather, perfect for stargazing.
Just 35 minutes from Sesriem, the gateway to Sossuvlei, the dunes and dried-up ancient trees of Deadvlei, Desert Hills is an ideal stop whether you’re driving through Namibia’s southern or northern loop.
Our stay here was short, but a perfect break during our drive through this incredible country.
More information
For more information and to book a stay at Desert Hills Glamping Camp
go to Namibia Tracks and Trails on https://www.namibia-tracks-and-trails.com/en/
Words, photos and 360 virtual tour: Mark Hakansson
