Breaking Travel News investigates: Tortello, London | Focus
Bayswater is one of the strangest areas in London.
Wealthy, centrally located and internationally sought after, it lacks the charm of nearby Kensington, with its embassies, museums and ancient aristocratic riches, or even the village atmosphere and luxury shopping of Marylebone.
The beautiful plastered terraces and some extremely expensive addresses around Kensington Gardens have not given it the reputation of the prestigious residential area it has become.
Could Tortello, one of the most exciting new Italian restaurant openings in London in recent years, change that?
The scale of the new location is certainly adequate, with the glass facade on Bayswater Road, opposite Hyde Park, proudly displaying the lemon-themed brand.
Conceptualized as a fresh, contemporary interpretation of the traditional Italian trattoria, Tortello combines time-honored techniques with a refined modern twist, bringing heritage dishes into the present with clarity and style.
The interior reflects this ethos of thoughtful design, with a hand-painted vineyard mural created by a London artist, a walkway lined with olive trees and aromatic herbs, and a pistachio green 1960s Fiat 500 offering a playful Italian welcome.
The 80-seat dining room and terrace overlooking the park provide a warm, elegant setting for dinner parties.
When we visited in late spring, the place was full of well-groomed ladies having an early evening snack – many of whom seemed to be discussing pressing local issues, a world away from the crowds of tourists lining the road near Oxford Street.
Although based in the same building as the Royal Lancaster London, Tortello operates independently and is clearly aimed at discerning locals rather than passing visitors.
A technique-focused cuisine is at the heart of the experience, focusing on regional Italian dishes, hand-rolled pasta and an ingredient-driven approach that celebrates simplicity, seasonality and skill.
Tortello celebrates the art of hand-making pasta, with silky-soft flours from specialist Italian mills, rich golden eggs produced exclusively for the restaurant, and produce sourced from artisan farmers who share the same commitment to quality and tradition.
We enjoyed bruschetta and translucent beef carpaccio with arugula, anchovies, salsa verde and Parmigiano Reggiano shavings to start, both of which were executed with a level of precision that reflected the confidence of the kitchen.
For the main course we chose fillet tagliata of British beef with fried spinach, fries and salsa verde, alongside tortelli of peas and shallots with mint butter emulsion, guanciale and pecorino.
Both dishes reflected modern Italian cuisine at its best, combining quality seasonal ingredients with classic flavors and contemporary presentation.
Tortello does not reinvent the wheel, but delivers familiar dishes with great skill and certainty.
Fancy a walk after dinner?
Across the street, the Italian theme continues with the Italian Gardens, an extensive collection of ornate sculptures and fountains.
The pools feature central rosettes in Carrara marble, next to the Tazza Fountain in Portland stone and white marble, as well as a collection of stone statues and urns.
Traditionally it is said to have been a gift from Prince Albert to Queen Victoria. The gardens are now recognized as a place of special interest and are Grade II listed by Historic England.
This semi-hidden gem is typical of Bayswater as a whole and offers many of the benefits of prime central London, but with less hustle and bustle.
Tortello could be the restaurant that finally puts the area on the map.
More information
The name Tortello, a single tortelloni, reflects everything the restaurant stands for: care down to the smallest details, respect for tradition and the belief that real taste comes from real craftsmanship.
Read more on the official website here.
